Hydrocolloids 101

Just the word itself does not, at first glance associate itself with fine dining, or the art/craft of cooking at all, at least in my mind. But such is the nature of cooking and the evolution, or progress of the discipline. Hydrocolloids is, in my mind anyways, just the fancy, proper term for a wide variety of substances for the purpose of gelling, thickening, or emulsifying liquid foodstuffs. If you have not read or heard anything on the subject just think of them as newer and better ingredients in your pantry. Cornstarch and gelatin, as well as the flour you use to make a roux or slurry are themselves hydrocolloids and certainly the ones that most people are familiar with. Xanthan Gum and Agar Agar, as well as Carrageenan are probably the first ones that the average person might recognize the names of and whether you know it or not you are more than likely already part of your daily diet, in the ice cream you have for dessert, the salsa with your chips, and a host of other products. While you might say that cornstarch and gelatin have worked just fine for thickening your products the possibilities of these new hydrocolloids, gums, gels and emulsifiers opens up a whole new world of textures and flavors. Gelatin like sauces that maintain their viscosity at higher temperatures with one, thickened juices, or liquids that don’t require heat with another and the list goes on.

While I am touting the possibilities that hydrocolloids offer the modern chef, I (at this point anyways) am certainly not professing to be any expert on the subject. As I began this website, or blog, I had just recently had my creative drive reawaken and with it the search for an outlet for this urge began, I started to hunt high and low for inspiration and ideas, at the time I was not limiting myself to the culinary arena but certainly anything I was going to was going to be associated with my profession one way or the other. Enter the world of the chef’s blog. Inspiration came to me from so many venues that I was actually a bit overwhelmed, and despondent at the same time. Had I removed myself from the world of high end cuisine for too long? My current position does not allow me to move forward and experiment with these as much as I would like but I am learning and researching as much as my free time allows. As much as these hydrocolloids are fascinating in the possibilities they open up to the chef wishing to experiment the literature out there in print form seems to be somewhat limited, and what I have found looks to be along the lines of reference material for the manufacturing industry (acceptable) and quite pricey (not so acceptable). The idea of spending almost $200.00 on a book only to find out that it’s not what I was after really makes me stop and re-evaluate the situation. On line material is out there to be found, but seems to assume a better than basic knowledge of the substances. The ones I have found that have been the most useful so far are the blog/website Ideas in Food and a PDF “book”, Textures, that can be found at http://khymos.org.

As I discover more in regards to this subject matter, rest assured I’ll share it here. If all works as planned I should have a nice windfall of new products waiting for me at home as the next days off happen in a couple of weeks, at that point sourcing these ingredients in Canada may finally be a done deal, without breaking the bank. Next up, start the more difficult task of sourcing sous-vide equipment in Canada, also without breaking the bank, or paying Customs Canada their piece of the pie. Stay tuned.

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Sourcing in Canada

While the Internet and the World Wide Web may be an indispensable tool for information, ideas and inspiration lately it seems it is also a constant source of frustration to me. Time and time again as I attempt to locate suppliers of that esoteric ingredient or extremely specialized tool I find that while a website may come up as based in Canada, the darn ingredient or tool is priced and ships from the US, or from even further abroad. That, in and of itself isn’t a big issue, these days the exchange rate with the US dollar is not a big deal, but the shipping can sometimes be a shocker, not to mention the duties and tariffs and taxes that our wonderful government sees fit to tack onto so many international purchases. Not too long ago I was hunting for a precision scale to weigh out hydrocolloids by the fraction of the gram for the preparation of new dish. Thanks to a fellow chef (thank you Mr. Olunloyo) it was a simple matter of clicking a link on his blog. Presto, I’m at a new website offering said scale for the very reasonable price of about $15.00, but low and behold as I attempt to purchase the item, up pops the shipping charges of $35.00, and that is even before the government of Canada gets a hold of it, and Customs Canada can gouge you pretty good as well. No thanks, I’ll keep looking. (Said scale was found in Edmonton, for about $45.00CDN, cheaper in the big picture) I am so apprehensive of purchasing actual edible ingredients from outside of the country I haven’t even begun to look into the complexities of such a purchase, I can just imagine that the time spent in customs would render even a semi-perishable item garbage. Some ingredients and so on I have now found here in Canada, some I’m still searching for, and some I will either have to live without or bite the bullet and buy through the Web, with an international purchase.

On the other hand it is sometimes quite surprising what you can find in the most unlikely places. My last days off proved to be quite fruitful in my ongoing search for culinary esoterica, you never know where you might find the deal of the year or the odd little tool you’ve been hunting for. Go figure, the local hardware store just had a special on a vacuum sealer for about half price and stocks a non brand name cream whipper for a fraction of the cost of an iSi. The Canadian Tire in my neighborhood also just had a 70% off deal on a decent set of pots and pans to match up with the induction burner I couldn’t resist. Time to keep on hunting, now all I need is a bigger kitchen, preferably attached to a nice 80 seat dining room. ;)

 

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So much food, so little time

As another weekend at home draws to a close I sit back and think about everything that I wanted to accomplish on this set of days off. As usual I didn’t get half of what I wanted to done, but what I did manage was very encouraging in so many ways, lots of cooking and a few old techniques were revisited. A few new ideas were incubated and some of the new ideas actually began to see the light of the kitchen.

The more time I spend on line reading about all the newest techniques some chefs are blogging about and the ingredients that are popping up plus the ones that are becoming more commonplace outside of the manufacturing and processing industry the more I am torn. Old school has treated us well over the decades, even over a couple of centuries. Modern equipment, techniques, and ingredients are exciting and intriguing and have the capability of taking food to wonderful new levels of flavor and texture. Is there a middle ground to keep everyone satisfied, or does one lean heavily one way or the other? One of the chefs I follow the adventures of stated it quite well I believe with the statement that we must lead the dining public forward, without losing them. The daring and the “foodies” will always be the first to try the newest trends in cuisine, but what about the vast majority of the dining public? Where will their comfort level allow them to go? As well as that, as I read and follow the trends that are published in print, as well as on line I am learning about things that are just coming into the most up to the minute kitchens in some of the most progressive markets in North America. How long will it be before the dining public in Northern Alberta is ready for these dishes and flavors? People are always claiming to want that newest thing, something different, something interesting, but usually end up with the burger, steak, or spaghetti. Early in my career, about twenty five years ago, I was reading an item about the newest flavor to gain popularity in Los Angeles at the time and it was Pesto, after a bit of searching I figured that I couldn’t purchase it prepared anywhere around the west coast of Canada, but I did manage to source out Pine Nuts and a recipe for it. Tried it as a special to rather mixed revues but slowly I noticed it appear at other restaurants, and eventually even on a menu or two. That took a few years and these days, a couple of decades later you can find a variety of prepared pastes in just about every grocery store no matter where.

I guess I’ll just keep on exploring and thinking and experimenting and let my heart and common sense fight it out some time in the future. For now I’m just cooking the new and interesting for myself, friends and family when I can. Work will remain work, with lots of burgers, steak, and spaghetti.

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Old School, New School

 

Over the last few months, as I have begun to share my thoughts and some ideas here I have at the same time started to seriously follow fellow chefs and their blogs. In the beginning there were quite a number of blogs that I would visit regularly but as time went on the numbers dwindled. I’m fairly certain that this happens to most people as they discover the world of the on-line journal. I had heard the word blog mentioned here and there on the WWW and in discussions here and there in the past but had not given in much thought. Of course I had given the idea of my own website considerable thought and I was at a standstill as to which direction I should take to establish a site worthy of some visitors. Just over a half a year ago I took the plunge with a hosting package and a couple of domain names that I wanted to use, for both myself and Karlene. Each of us with one for personal blogging and one for (hopefully) commercial uses in the end. As I began the search for a format to use for this and the other sites the blogging world seemed to appear almost out of nowhere and I found all the different platforms available to us. I tried a couple of content management systems as well as building a site from scratch, with my limited time and even more limited experience that wasn’t the route to take. After a fair bit of trial and error I finally settled on the platform you see before you and settled in to add content, and before I knew it, it had turned into a full fledged blog, and that is perfectly fine for now.

But back to the topic that the title of this post alludes to; As the number of blogs I followed, the ones that really interested me, and kept me going back to read deeper into their respective archives and await their next posts I became more intrigued with the new, and newest techniques and ingredients that these chefs are employing to create their dishes and menus. I slowly began to source and purchase obscure and esoteric ingredients, began to augment my personal kitchen with new tools and equipment and basically jumped into following these new directions with all the time and energy I could spare from the day to day duties of my current position. Herein lies my problem, as we have a very special annual function coming up in a few weeks, a banquet that allows us to showcase our talents and divert from the usual format of our menus, I tried (in vain) to have my Chef incorporate some of this newfound knowledge into the menu. Old school and Chef win out. Rats. While my Chef is only about six years older than I, he has such an ingrained sense of old school, and classic techniques and presentations that we are for the most part doing the same style as either of us would have twenty or more years ago. Disheartening is probably the best term to us to describe my feelings right now, but I’m not overly surprised the way it’s turning out. Our situation here keeps us from diverting from the menu and over time I suppose the creative urge gets beaten down. Chef has been at this venue for about five years longer than I and is seriously contemplating retirement from cooking in the near future. I on the other hand have just found a new lease on life, both professionally and personally and am looking forward to quite a few years of playing the game to come.

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Blessing or Curse?

Expanding my library

Expanding my library

 

D**m you World Wide Web, d**m you Internet, d**m you too, all you excellent chefs who spend some of your precious free time blogging and sharing knowledge and information. If it was not for you and the other items on my list of things to curse right now I could have remained complacent in my current position, with my current skill set. But because of you and the creations that you share with the world via the Web, I am now (almost) frantically trying to play catch up in the world of 21st century cuisine. Not that I have been totally hiding under a rock the last couple of years, it just feels that way sometimes. You become comfortable in a position with a certain style or genre of cooking and end up not looking around at what the rest of the world is doing. Some of the new techniques that are being employed these days, and some that have been around for a while and are just becoming available and/or affordable to the average chef are luring me out of my “comfort zone”, and back onto at least the “bleeding edge” of our profession.

Also, due to all the wonders of modern technology, not only are the techniques of cooking moving forward at a very fast pace, the miracle of the Internet and the Web allow us to make impulse type purchases with a couple of clicks of the mouse. Even if the purchases are not exactly done on impulse, the Web at least allows me to source, buy and have non-digital materials shipped to me, even when I am isolated and stuck here, feeding the men and women who are coaxing the oil out of the sand.

 

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Changes, & Habits

 

Why is it that old habits are so hard to break, and new habits are so hard to form. Is it just simply human nature, or is it the nature of habits? The Doobie Brothers did an album decades ago titled “What were once vices are now habits”, and I guess my old habit of letting things slide for too long has poked it’s nose out again. The habit I had begun to get myself into of writing almost every day, and posting every other day or so, quickly fell by the wayside when work, and life started beating me down a little too far. As every day passed that I was not writing it became easier to put it off for “just one more day”. A few weeks ago I was telling myself that I just had to get a bit of time off and rest and recuperate from my ridiculously long turnaround, as that time came, and went I had to come up with new rationalizations to make myself feel better in not writing. It just wasn’t working anymore. I really truly enjoy the writing and posting and one part of me actually does care whether or not there is anyone out there that is actually reading what I have to say. But that isn’t the main reason that I am doing this, (I think).

But I digress, why is it that it so darn easy, after days, or weeks, or even months of working towards building a new standard, a habit if you will, to fall back into older, more ingrained habits? That kind of answers itself I know, but still…. Whether it be a new and more nutritious diet, or a new and more positive outlook on life, or blogging, website development, exercise, you name it, how long does it take for the new practices to become ingrained enough that one has no choice but to follow that new habit rather than the old one?

Reading another chefs combined personal/professional blog earlier this evening I read almost the same sentiments as I had begun here, in this post weeks ago. She wrote, very eloquently, that she was missing her blog, almost as an entity, and the interaction she receives from it. Her blog though, unlike this one, is rather well read and followed. (She had received 35 comments and many more views in the course of one day after posting). Over the last few weeks I have missed posting, and writing, I have done a bit of reading and learning, but most of all I have just been working. Work is down to the manageable roar that is has usually been so I hope to be back here with much more regularity from this point forward. I have missed it, and if there is anyone out there reading this, I’m sorry, I hope to be with you more often.

If there is a bright side to this hiatus it has to be that with all the work that I have done, plus the extracurricular reading and cooking and so on that has occurred in the past few weeks I hope to have both the websites going there own ways again shortly, rather than this generic covering of both with one post. The world of chefs and their blogs has sent my cooking into a few new directions that I want to share on webrestaurateur, and the rest of my life has been full enough to share some new stuff on prontnicki.ca as well…. Stay tuned, and good night for now. :)

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Update

 

Well, hello there, it’s me and I’m still alive and kicking. Thirty three days down and eight to go. Just thought that I would post a little note saying that although I would love to be sharing more with everyone and get on with the business of creating a decent site, work has got me by the short and curlies right now. Not only have I been putting in an incredibly long stretch the hours in every day have increased somewhat as well. Breaks are just long enough to keep the nicotine cravings at bay for a while and the time spent working seems to be more intense than ever. ( I know, b***h, whine and snivel is all I do.) As I posted what seems like forever ago, that wall has been hit and these days it seems like the exhaustion, aches and pains have been my companions for so long I don’t even notice them all that much any more. What has been occurring in the last couple of days is that I have noticed that the brain is starting to go, attention span is down to that of a gnat, and if it doesn’t involve cooking or the kitchen my IQ seems to have regressed to that of a cantaloupe.

This past weekend has added a new dimension to my duties as well as I have been made the acting (how I hate that term) sous chef. With all that is going on these days I have had to scrub the rust off of my managerial skills and deal with the entire staff and then some again, it’s been better than some times in the past and I can almost say that I have enjoyed it, almost.

On the bright side, as I have been totally immersing myself in cooking and creating, (as much as I can up here) once I get a bit of R&R in next week I have a pocket full of posts that I really want to get up here, and there. Probably put a few in the bank as well to cover my gluteus maximus in the event that this ever happens again. But for now, it’s off to bed and rest as much as I can, so I can do it all over again in the morning. Thank you all for the patience. :)

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The Wall

 

Fairly regularly in the world of endurance sports you hear the term “hitting the wall”, in performance activities you get the term “in the zone”, and in the culinary field you have the term “in the weeds”. Well, I think I have finally hit the wall here, yesterday should have been the end of my usual shift and time to go home for a few days of well deserved rest but it was not to be this time around. Circumstances certainly beyond my control and to an extent beyond the control of my Chef have conspired to keep me at work for another three weeks. So as the time of my usual departure came, and went, somehow in my subconscious, something changed and I felt the weight of the last three and a half weeks lift somewhat. This is not to say I felt re energized or fully ready for the upcoming time in camp but for one reason or another I felt as if I could just go on for as long as necessary to get this done. Now I don’t run marathons or any real endurance type activities but just over seven weeks of ten hour shifts is definitely a test of endurance, and stamina. Cooking is not a sport no matter how you look at it but it is an activity that requires a level of performance and being in the zone is something most cooks and chefs can relate to. When the pace of business just continues to increase and it seems like there is no end to what you can accomplish that must be “the zone”, (until of course it goes that one order too far and then you’re in the weeds).

This isn’t the first time, and probably won’t be the last that I end up doing far too many shifts without getting out of here, but this is the first time that I can recall that I have gotten to a point where I feel like the exhaustion is there but has been put aside, become a secondary consideration to the fact that there is almost no one left to do the work. As I posted a little while ago, we have lost a few staff to regular attrition and for the next three weeks to a month we have lost a couple more to annual vacation and family issues. That leaves two where there would normally be three or four, and our other outlet on this property is in no better shape, so at this point all you can say is that it’s time to make “hay” while the sun is shining and hopefully the latter half of August and September still have some summer like days for the rest of us to enjoy as well.

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Parting Ways, Part Two

 

If I didn’t know better I would have to think that one of the co-workers read my last post on this subject on Sunday, immediately after I wrote it. As I walked in to work Monday morning the news of the day was that said co-worker was no more, he had just walked out in the middle of his shift and was at that point already on his way home. Now people walking out is nothing terribly new in this business, but here it certainly is. We are in the middle of nowhere and you have to rely on your employer to get you anywhere close to civilization to catch a flight or even a bus. Anyways, he’s gone, little bit of shuffling around of staff and a bit of grumbling here and there but problem solved, in more ways than one.

Later on in the week employee number two left for his greener pastures and those of us remaining breathed a collective sigh of relief, the last two weeks were an exercise in patience and the turning of a blind eye or two. It speaks volumes to be able to lose two employees in a week and end up with a better running operation as a result. Thankfully in the time since some of these people were hired the employer here has begun to exercise his rights under the probationary period to weed out some of those that are not destined to fit in, in an environment such as this. The blame does not lie on any shoulders in particular since this is an extremely unusual venue to work at, and hard on life in general. Spend at three weeks at a time away from friends and family with nothing to do but work, sleep, eat, and few recreational pursuits other than the idiot box and the Web, and then decide if the money is really worth it. The flip side of that coin is of course the fact that all hiring is done strictly over the phone, with a resume sent in and a quick interview over the phone, pass your pee test and make your way to a gateway airport and your employed, then the actual “interview” begins, but the employer has just spent hundreds of dollars to hire you and get you here.

  • As a side note to end this post, my schedule was finally put to paper and my last post was somewhat incorrect, it’s now 21 down, and 22 to go. Forty three days straight, six weeks in the middle of summer and I’m stuck in camp at work. Yippee again :| and hump day is tomorrow!

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Lemons

 

They say that when life throws you lemons, make lemonade. Well over the last couple of years I have been trying everything I can to remain positive at all times, not working all that well, most of the time yes, but I’m only human.

So they say to make lemonade from those lemons, I go ahead and start making lemonade but cut my finger slicing the lemons open, and squirt lemon juice in my eye trying to squeeze out the juice.

I hate lemons, give me a lime any day. ;)

On a more serious note, other than working my posterior off for an extended stay in camp this turnaround things are starting to look up a bit. Hopefully over the next couple of days I can get back into a groove of sharing my thoughts with anyone out there who chooses to read them. Nineteen days in camp and probably nineteen to go, so I guess this is hump day. yippee :|

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